Home
Rodale Bookshelf
Herbs for Health and Healing: The Face

Chapter List

Special Limited Time Offer!
Order today and
Save an Extra 15%!
Use coupon code: LSAVE15

The Face

The philosopher who said "The eyes are the window to the soul" had it half right. I've long thought that the entire face is the pathway to the heart.

Herbs can be used to lessen the effects of aging, exposure to sunlight and other face-changers—taken properly, they can add a healthy glow, heal facial disorders, prevent premature wrinkling and generally give you a bit more control over the fate of your face.

DRY COMPLEXION

Have you ever considered starting your day with a yogurt, honey and fruit smoothie—not for breakfast, but on your face? If you suffer from dry skin, you've probably considered trying just about anything. This emollient facial mask coaxes water to the surface and does a great job of moisturizing dry skin.

If you have a dry complexion, the skin on your face probably has a fine texture with no visible pores. This type of skin tends to be thin and sensitive, and it may often feel tight and dry, especially after you wash it. It can eventually become sallow and develop a coarse texture. If you have dry skin, chances are it is due to underactive oil glands, probably from a combination of heredity and low hormone production. Skin constantly loses water through sweat and evaporation, but tiny glands secrete an oil to coat skin and stop this loss.

Because women, especially those who are fairskinned, tend to have drier skin than men do, they are more susceptible to premature wrinkling and flaking skin. Escaping summer's damaging heat by jumping into a chlorinated swimming pool or by seeking the cool but dry air of air-conditioning generally increases skin dryness. Dry skin is also vulnerable to winter's wind and chapping cold, which further suppress the oil glands' production. If the air inside your house is particularly dry, consider using a humidifier. You should also consider a humidifier if you heat your home with a woodburning stove, which has a drying effect on the skin. If you don't have a humidifier, you can achieve the same effect by keeping a pan of water over low heat on the stove.

You can also use herbs to help help bring moisture to your dry skin. Cosmetics experts and aromatherapists suggest the essential oils of palmarosa, rosewood and sandalwood to stimulate oil production in dry skin. According to these authorities, small amounts of peppermint or rosemary increase the skin's oil production and improve circulation. Chamomile, lavender, jasmine, elder flowers, red clover and soothing herbs such as Irish moss, calendula, comfrey, marshmallow root and violets soothe and heal the irritation that so easily develops as outer layers of dry skin flake off. The essential oil of carrot seed soothes extremely raw skin. Elder flowers improve the complexion's tone and texture. In France, dry complexions are treated with an elder-flower water called eau de sureau.

If you have a dry complexion, always use as little soap as possible—most soaps dry out your skin. Avoid foaming cleansers, which are far too drying. When you do wash with soap, choose one designed for delicate skin. Otherwise, wash with a water-soluble cleansing cream for dry skin—these are designed not to remove the skin's natural oil—and always pat your face dry very gently. Remove makeup with a face cream instead of soap, and always use makeup that contains moisturizers.

Avoid facial toners that contain alcohol, which will dry your skin. Instead, use a toner with a vinegar base—this will soften your skin, help it maintain its natural acidity and relieve the itchiness and flakiness that often accompany dryness.

The mild astringency of hydrosols is ideal for dry skin because it increases the skin's water content. Hydrosols that contain aloe or glycerin also help skin to retain moisture. Facial creams that are half oil are suitable for dry skin. Heavy, rich creams with even more oil offer greater protection from water evaporation but tend to be greasy; they are usually reserved for the sensitive skin around the eyes where there are no oil glands.

A facial steam can help a dry complexion, but make sure it is not too hot and that it lasts five minutes at the most. Also, don't opt for a facial steam more than once a week because the heat in regular steaming will further dry your skin. Another option is a gentle facial massage with an herbal scrub made with cornmeal and oatmeal. While many people think scrubs are too harsh for a dry complexion, they actually stimulate oil production and remove flaky, dry surface skin. A few minutes per treatment is enough.

Dry skin is sometimes accompanied by inflammations such as blemishes or puffiness around the eyes. Numerous scientific studies on chamomile, lavender, rosemary and Saint-John's-wort show that these herbs reduce these inflammations. In the early 1990s, H.W. Kreysel, M.D., director of the Dermatologic Clinic at the University of Bonn in Germany, conducted three separate clinical studies on chamomile with dozens of men and women. He found that a chamomile cream restored a smooth, 17085PG310 healthy appearance to rough and red skin faster and more thoroughly than other creams did. It also improved "peak and valley" patterns, known more commonly as wrinkles.

Cleanser for Dry Complexion

2 ounces aloe vera gel

1 teaspoon vegetable oil

1 teaspoon glycerin

½ teaspoon grapefruit seed extract

8 drops sandalwood essential oil

4 drops rosemary essential oil

Blend ingredients. Shake well before each use. Apply with cotton balls, then rinse off. I like to substitute grape seed oil or Saint-John's-wort oil for the vegetable oil. You can also use jojoba oil (really a liquid wax); it is more expensive than vegetable oil but is good for the complexion, and unlike true vegetable oils, it will not spoil.

Toner for Dry Complexion

2 ounces aloe vera gel

2 ounces orange-blossom water

1 teaspoon vinegar

6 drops rose geranium essential oil

4 drops sandalwood essential oil

1 drop each chamomile and jasmine (optional) essential oils

800 International Units vitamin E oil

Combine ingredients. Shake before using. For the vinegar, I prefer using elder-flower vinegar, but since it is not sold in stores, you must make it yourself (see Herbal Vinegar Formula in chapter 9). The jasmine is optional because it is so expensive. You can use liquid vitamin E oil or pop open two 400International Unit vitamin E capsules. This toner can also be used as a man's aftershave.

Cream for Dry Complexion

¾ ounce beeswax, shaved

1 cup vegetable oil

1 cup water (or rose water)

24 drops ( ¼ teaspoon) rose geranium essential oil or 6 drops rose essential oil

Heat beeswax and vegetable oil in a pot until beeswax melts. In a separate pot, heat water until it is warm to the touch. Remove the center ring on the lid of your blender (or food processor) and pour the warm water in. With the blender on high speed, slowly add the oil-beeswax mixture. (This is just like making mayonnaise. You need to pour the oil steadily at just the right temperature—you should be able to put your finger in both the oil and the water without discomfort.) The whole concoction should begin to solidify when three-quarters of the oil has been added. As this happens, add the essential oils and carefully stir in top edges as they turn solid, staying away from the blender's blades. Keep adding oil until the mixture becomes too stiff to take any more, or when all the water is blended in. Turn off blender. You should have a thick, smooth cream. Using a rubber spatula, pour the cream into widemouthed jars while it is still warm. (Once it cools, it will be too thick to pour.) Do not try to cut this recipe in half—if you do, there will not be enough liquid to cover the blender blades.

Be sure that you purchase beeswax (sold at craft stores, at natural food and herb stores, and by beekeepers) and not paraffin. Creams, lotions or substances containing water carry a personal invitation for bacterial growth, but essential oils, beeswax and vitamin E are natural preservatives and, under most conditions, give your creams at least a six-month shelf life. If you store your extra cream in the refrigerator, it should keep three times as long. As an extra precaution against spoilage, you might consider using grapefruit seed extract, another powerful antibacterial agent, or vitamin E. Add eight drops grapefruit seed extract or 400 International Units vitamin E per ounce. Be sure that your tools—blender, bowls, measuring cups and containers—are very clean. Even dipping a finger into a cosmetic invites bacteria, so use a small cosmetic spatula or a clean chopstick to scoop cream from the jar.

Facial Steam for Dry Complexion

3 cups water

Method #1: Using Herbs

1 heaping teaspoon each rose petals, rosemary leaves and fennel seeds

½ teaspoon peppermint leaves

Simmer water, add herbs, remove from heat and steep for 5 minutes.

Method #2: Using Essential Oils

1 drop each rose geranium, rosemary, fennel and peppermint essential oils

Simmer water, turn off heat and add essential oils.

For either method, set pan in a location where you can comfortably sit next to it. Cover the back of your head with a towel and tuck the ends of the towel around the pan so that steam is captured inside a "mini-sauna." Hold your head about 1 foot away from the water. Make sure that the steam is not so hot that it feels uncomfortable, and keep your eyes closed so that the essential oils do not sting them. Stay in the steam for a few minutes, then come out to cool your face. Do this for a few rounds, as long as it's comfortable.

Scrub for Dry Complexion

2 tablespoons oatmeal

1 tablespoon cornmeal

1 teaspoon chamomile, lavender or elder flowers

6 drops lavender essential oil

Grind dry ingredients in blender or electric coffee grinder. (Drugstores sell colloidal oatmeal, which needs no grinding.) Add essential oil and stir to distribute. Store in closed container. To use, moisten 1 teaspoon with enough water to make a paste, dampen your face with a little water and gently apply scrub. Rinse with warm water.

Mask for Dry Complexion

1 tablespoon ground oatmeal

1 tablespoon rose water or aloe vera juice

1 teaspoon vegetable oil

1 teaspoon honey

2 drops rose geranium or palmarosa essential oil

Mix ingredients and apply to face. Leave on for 5 to 10 minutes, then rinse off. Castor oil is a good choice for the vegetable oil because of its emollient qualities and because it mixes easily with the other ingredients. Keep any leftover mask in the refrigerator.

17085PG312 OILY COMPLEXION

People with oily complexions tend to bemoan their genetic fate, at least through their early years. Only later do they start to feel fortunate. There is a positive side to oily skin—it protects and lubricates, so you can expect fewer wrinkles as your skin matures.

An oily complexion tends to be shiny and to have large pores and a thick, coarse texture. It may seem that summer would help an oily complexion, but this is not so. Overexposure to the sun combined with sunburn stimulates already overactive oil glands into even heavier production. Sweating from the heat only increases the skin's oiliness.

In winter, oil buildup is made worse when we bundle up with scarves and hats. All that excess oil attracts dirt, which can breed bacteria, cause infection and clog pores with dead cells.

Nothing you use on your skin should completely stop your skin from producing oil, but some herbs can slow the production. Basil, eucalyptus, cedarwood, cypress, lemon, sage, lemongrass, yarrow, ylang-ylang (sold only as an essential oil) and the fruit and leaves of strawberry help normalize overactive oil glands. I also use lady's mantle, an attractive plant grown by many herb gardeners.

Clean your oily face at least twice a day with a neutral-pH (7.0) soap or cleanser. Wipe away excess oil with cotton pads soaked in witch hazel or a cleanser for oily skin. Steam your face at least once a week—this will unclog pores and eliminate excess oil. Avoid scrubbing; it stimulates oil production. Instead, use a facial mask of oats or clay to draw out and absorb surface skin oils. (Rinse the mask off before your skin begins to feel tight and itchy.) A slight amount of grain alcohol in a toner is okay, but do not use it often. Alcohol is drying, but if you dry out oily skin too much, it will produce even more oil to compensate. Moisturizers that double as toners, such as those with aloe vera or natural ingredients containing AHAs are good—even oily skin needs some moisturizing.

Cleanser for Oily Complexion

2 ounces witch hazel

1 teaspoon vinegar

1 teaspoon glycerin

½ teaspoon grapefruit seed extract

6 drops lemon essential oil

2 drops each cypress and grapefruit (optional) essential oils

Follow the directions given for Cleanser for Dry Complexion (above). If available, you can use an herbal vinegar; I make my own yarrow vinegar.

Facial Steam for Oily Complexion

3 cups water

Method #1: Using Herbs

1 heaping teaspoon each chamomile flowers, lemon grass leaves, lavender flowers and rosemary leaves

Simmer water, add herbs, remove from heat and steep 5 minutes.

Method #2: Using Essential Oils

1 drop each chamomile, lemongrass, lavender and rosemary essential oils

Bring water to a simmer, turn off heat and add essential oils.

To steam, follow directions for Facial Steam for Dry Complexion (opposite page).

Mask for Oily Complexion

1 tablespoon witch hazel

1 teaspoon bentonite (or other facial) clay

1 strawberry, mashed (optional)

2 drops each cypress and lemon essential oils

Combine ingredients and apply. Leave on for 5 to 10 minutes, then rinse.

Toner for Oily Complexion

2 ounces witch hazel

1 tablespoon aloe vera gel

5 drops cedarwood essential oil

3 drops lemon essential oil

1 drop ylang-ylang essential oil

Combine ingredients. Shake well before using. Without the ylang-ylang, which is too sweet-smelling for most men, this makes an excellent aftershave.

MATURE COMPLEXION

Your face takes on more character as you mature, but most of us would just as soon keep our immature smooth skin. The legendary French beauty Ninon de L'Enclos, who felt she had no need for lines, once bitterly complained, "If God had to give woman wrinkles, He might at least have put them on the soles of her feet." According to some skin specialists, anyone over 25 has mature skin, but lines typically start to form in your thirties. Your chances of having mature skin and wrinkles when you are young increase if you have a fair complexion or only a thin layer of fat under your skin, if you smoke cigarettes, or if you spend lots of time in the sun.

If you have mature skin, it is likely that it will also be dry, so many of the recommendations for dry skin will apply. In addition, rose geranium, 17085PG314 jasmine, Frankincense and myrrh rejuvenate skin by encouraging new cells to develop. So do some unusual essential oils: carrot seed, helichrysum and cistus (better known to gardeners as rock rose). Marshmallow, comfrey and gotu kola heal skin, stimulate skin-cell growth and soothe skin that is irritated from being dry and flaky. For centuries, lavender, neroli, rosemary, rose and fennel have been called anti-aging herbs. These herbs are listed in many old recipes, including one from the diary of the duchess of Alba, whose beauty was recorded in Goya's late nineteenth-century portraits of her. The duchess used rose water and almond oil mixed with egg white to "keep out the wrinkles and preserve the complexion fair" and to promote firmness when "the skin becomes too loosely attached to the muscles."

As you grow older, your body produces fewer of the hormones that keep skin supple and youthful, and supplies less oil, protein and natural moisturizing factors, which attract and hold water in the skin. This process also tends to make the skin drier. As time goes by, collagen and elastin—"elastic" fibers in the skin that are arranged like the meshwork of woven fabric—eventually lose their strength, eliminating the skin's underlying support and causing it to wrinkle and sag. It is these fibers, not muscle, that make your skin strong and keep it toned, firm and unwrinkled.

Like the rest of the fashion world, the cosmetics industry is subject to changing fads and trends. In the 1980s, collagen and elastin derived from animals were acclaimed as cosmetic ingredients to slow the effects of aging on your skin. There doesn't seem to be much point to these treatments—most skin specialists argue that the molecules are too big to penetrate the skin and couldn't mesh with existing fibers even if they did. You can, however, encourage natural collagen production with herbs and foods that contain lots of vitamin C and compounds commonly associated with vitamin C—rutin, flavonoids and hesperidin. For a complete list of these beneficial herbs and foods, see "Couperose Complexion" below. Other herbs, such as gotu kola, echinacea and horsetail, increase skin elasticity and strengthen connective tissue.

So-called antioxidant herbs offer an effective defense against the skin's aging. These herbs encourage cells to regenerate and prevent the formation of free radicals. Free radicals are unstable, quickly multiplying molecules, which are increased by cigarette smoking, inhaling car exhaust and ingesting certain pesticides. They are thought to play a role in the skin losing its elasticity and wrinkling. (In fact, free radicals are thought to play a part in all aspects of aging, including "hardening of the arteries" and the development of cataracts. Due to the effect of these free radicals, a 40-year-old smoker is older, biologically, than a nonsmoker of the same age.) Many natural cosmetics for mature skin include herbs and vitamins that stop free radicals in their tracks. Powerful antioxidants include ginkgo, witch hazel and the essential oils of rosemary, marjoram and lavender.

Antioxidants also are good for treating liver spots, discolorations of the skin that actually have little to do with the liver. A more accurate label for them would be "sun spots" since they appear on the face and hands as a result of sun exposure. There are several natural bleaching agents you can try on these spots and on other types of blotchy skin. Horseradish, vinegar and lemon are favorites, so I suggest using all three.

For a mature complexion, use the cleanser and masks suggested for dry complexions. Drying facial masks, like those made with clay or oatmeal, should not be used often on mature skin and should be completely avoided if your skin is very dry. However, occasional use of astringent masks and toners has one advantage for a mature complexion—the water that they pull to the skin's surface slightly plumps up the skin and makes lines, wrinkles and enlarged pores seem smaller, at least temporarily. Unfortunately, this has a "Cinderella" effect; over the next few hours, the magic wears off as the water is reabsorbed and evaporates. Much like Cinderella's fairy godmother, I offer a warning—be home before the effect wears off. Watch out for commercial toners that plump skin by irritating it and causing inflammation.

Age Spot Remover

1 teaspoon grated horseradish root

½ teaspoon lemon juice

½ teaspoon vinegar

3 drops rosemary essential oil

Combine ingredients. If you know how, grating your own horseradish is best, but it is important to add juice and vinegar right away, before the enzymes start to break down. Don't get your fingers near your eyes—horseradish is hot stuff. Simpler, though not as effective, is to buy a bottle of ground horseradish.

Toner for Mature Complexion

2 ounces aloe vera gel

2 ounces orange-blossom water

1 teaspoon vinegar

6 drops rose geranium essential oil

4 drops each Frankincense and carrot seed essential oils

2 drops jasmine essential oil (optional)

800 International Units vitamin E oil

Combine ingredients. Shake before using. I prefer using elder-flower vinegar, but since it is not sold in stores, it must be homemade (see Herbal Vinegar Formula in chapter 9). It's certainly okay to use plain apple cider vinegar. The jasmine essential oil is optional because it is so expensive. You can use liquid vitamin E oil or pop open 2 400International Unit vitamin E capsules.

PROBLEM COMPLEXION

A problem complexion is characterized by pimples, cysts, blackheads and whiteheads. If you have this complexion, you know that it can be a constant source of worry and embarrassment. Acne occurs where there are the most oil glands—on the face, back and chest. In severe cases, it scars and pits the skin. Acne usually improves in early summer, as increased sun exposure provides vitamin D and lightly exfoliates the skin, but can worsen if oil glands become stimulated by too much heat and sun.

Oil gets to the skin's surface by traveling up the hair shaft. When your pores become clogged with excess oil and dead cells, the opening narrows; this shuts off oxygen to the pores and encourages bacterial growth, infection and inflammation. Blackheads arise when trapped oil darkens as it oxidizes (this darkening is not from dirt, as many people mistakenly believe). When pores are repeatedly clogged, they enlarge and change the skin's texture.

Most antiseptic herbs, including goldenseal, eucalyptus, sage, rosemary and tea tree, reduce acne. Chamomile, elder flowers, red clover and licorice unclog pores and refine, soften and heal skin. Lavender, neroli and rosemary stimulate new cell growth. In one study of more than 100 people with acne, it was found that a tea tree gel was very effective in combating this problem. Although the gel acted more slowly than an often-prescribed benzyl peroxide lotion, it was better tolerated by everyone's skin. In fact, tea tree produced no adverse reactions at all. You can apply a drop of tea tree essential oil directly a couple of times a day as a spot-application on pimples, as long as you do not rub it on larger areas of your skin and you are not overly sensitive to the oil.

Cleaning your face thoroughly and as often as three times a day is an important step in treating acne. Many people with problem skin like to use foaming cleansers, but if you do, be sure to choose one that is pH balanced. You should also steam once or twice a week, using antiseptic essential oils or herbs.

Scrubbing may seem ideal for an acned complexion, but it actually aggravates the condition. Stick to an astringent mask of clay moistened with a facial toner to promote slight peeling and reduce large pores. Toners with vinegar are antiseptic and maintain the skin's acid balance. You can heal damaged skin with a light lotion that contains mostly aloe vera and little or no oil.

Acne is often caused by hormone imbalances, especially high testosterone levels, which can lead to excess oil production. As a result, problem skin is most common during puberty, when hormones rage; indeed, 80 percent of North American adolescents have skin blemishes. Several studies on vitex berry, an herb that is known to reduce hormone levels and decrease their action, have been reported in various German scientific journals. These studies indicate that vitex helps control acne in young men and women. For women, vitex has been particularly helpful in alleviating premenstrual symptoms, and is especially useful in eliminating acne that flares up right before menstruation. Vitex is available in natural food stores as a tincture, as tea, or in pill form. For more information on the virtues of vitex, see chapters 55 through 71.

Unfortunately, acne can also follow you into adulthood, when—if related to hormone imbalances—it generally appears around the chin and jawline. The liver is responsible for keeping hormones like testosterone in balance. Refer to chapters 44 through 46 to learn more about herbs that can help fight acne, including milk thistle, burdock, yellow dock, tumeric and sarsaparilla.

Stress may also be partially responsible for causing skin blemishes, especially in women. Not all dermatologists agree that emotions influence the skin, but when researchers at Boston University asked a group of people what triggered their acne, most of them quickly came up with the same answer: stress. The researchers found that, although stress stimulates a rise in adrenal hormones in everyone, women's bodies respond to stress by overproducing testosterone. This finding led psychologists at North Texas State University to teach a group of people with acne stress-countering relaxation methods like deep breathing, biofeedback (in which a person is taught to be aware of unconscious or involuntary bodily processes so that she can learn to control them mentally) and imagery (imagining oneself in a calm, peaceful setting, such as a quiet green meadow). The result was that the complexions of these people improved much more than those in a similar group that did not learn the relaxation methods. If you suffer from acne and believe that stress is a contributing factor, see "Stress" in chapter 20 for herbs to promote relaxation.

The prevailing opinion of most dermatologists is that diet has little influence on acne. Holistic practitioners, including herbalists, do not share this view and suggest a whole-foods diet with plenty of vegetables and going easy on fatty foods, especially those high on concentrated fat, such as cheese, butter and fried foods. While fatty foods may not directly translate into oil on your skin, they do affect the functioning of your liver and thus your levels of hormones and stress. Fatty foods also reduce the action of important essential fatty acids in the body. Supplements of gamma linoleic acid (GLA), which is found in evening primrose oil, increase these fatty acids and have helped some cases of acne.

Blemish Remover

¼ cup water

1 teaspoon Epsom salts

4 drops lavender essential oil

Small cloth

Bring water to a boil and pour it over Epsom salts. When salts have dissolved, add essential oil. Soak a small absorbent cloth in solution and press this compress on any pimples. In a minute or two, as cloth starts to cool, place it in hot water again and reapply. Do this several times. The lavender is antiseptic and anti-inflammatory.

Intensive Treatment for Acne

½ teaspoon powdered goldenseal root

12 drops tea tree essential oil

Combine ingredients into a paste, adding water if needed. Apply directly on acne spots. Let dry and leave on the skin for at least 20 minutes. Rinse.

Facial Steam for Problem Complexion

3 cups water

Method #1: Using Herbs

1 heaping teaspoon each chamomile flowers, eucalyptus leaves, lavender flowers and rosemary leaves

Bring water to a boil. Remove from heat. Add herbs and steep for 5 minutes.

Method #2: Using Essential Oils

1 drop each chamomile, eucalyptus, lavender and rosemary essential oils

Bring water to a boil, turn off heat and add essential oils.

To steam, follow directions for Facial Steam for Dry Complexion (see above).

Mask for Acne

1 teaspoon bentonite (or other facial) clay

1 teaspoon ground strawberry leaves, (optional)

1 drop chamomile, sage or rosemary essential oil

1 drop tea tree essential oil

Water or toner

Mix ingredients into a

Shop with Us: Brands A-Z; Products A-Z; Autoship; Ways to Shop; Member Discounts

Customer Service: Contact Us; Help Desk; Shipping Policy; Return Policy; Ask a question; Track Your Order

My Account: My Account; My Order History; My Shopping Cart

Health Library: Vitamin Guide; Guide to Herbs; Health Concerns; Home Remedies; Seniors Health; Women's Health

About Us: Our Blog; Our Philosophy; Corporate Discounts; Affliliate Program; Terms of Use

Featured Partners

Email Sign up: Weekly health news, sale announcements and coupons!

Call us M-F 9am-5pm: 1-800-439-5506

Information on this site is provided for informational purposes and is not meant to substitute for the advice provided by your own physician or other medical professional. You should not use the information contained herein for diagnosing or treating a health problem or disease, or prescribing any medication. Information about each product is taken from the labels of the products or from the manufacturer's advertising material. MotherNature is not responsible for any statements or claims that various manufacturers make about their products. We cannot be held responsible for typographical errors or product formulation changes. You should read carefully all product packaging. If you have or suspect that you have a medical problem, promptly contact your health care provider. Information and statements regarding dietary supplements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration and are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.All discounts are taken from suggested retail prices. Prices are subject to change.