Healthy hair grows in a cyclical pattern; a strand of hair grows for a while, then it falls out and its root takes a rest before sprouting again. Balding occurs when hair roots never "wake up" again! This is the case with "male pattern baldness," which is especially common when hair growth begins to slow, around age 50 or 60. It is the male hormone testosterone, helped along by certain genes, that encourages hair roots to shut down. Genetic researcher and dermatologist Mary Sawaya, M.D., headed a team from the University of Florida in Miami that discovered certain enzymes in balding scalps that double testosterone's potency and thus discourage hair growth. Because of this enzyme-testosterone connection, this harmless but distressing problem afflicts mostly men—and a lot of them. Over half of North American men are destined to go bald.
If you are concerned about keeping your locks, your best bet is first to feed the hair from within with a healthy diet and to improve your blood circulation. You should also try to keep your cholesterol level low. Ilona Schreck-Purola, M.D., of the University of Helsinki hospital in Finland, found that when cholesterol builds up on the scalp, it actually chokes out growing hair. For herbs that cut cholesterol and generally improve the functioning of the circulatory system, see chapters 21 through 25.
The best diet for your hair is the same as that for your general health. Be sure to get plenty of nutrients from fresh fruits and vegetables and whole grains and go easy on saturated fats. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, hair needs a steady supply of protein. Malnutrition and even heavy dieting can cause hair loss, but don't go overboard in planning a high-protein diet to save your head. Nutritional expert Carl Pheiffer of the Brain-Bio Institute in Princeton, New Jersey, found that although hair requires protein, it is actually more likely to fall out when your diet is more than 20 percent protein.
Although herbs will not bring hair back once it is gone (there is no wonder cure), a few herbs do seem to slow hair loss, especially aloe vera gel, nettle and rosemary. For centuries, both men and women have massaged rosemary in olive oil into their scalps to keep their hair healthy and lush. According to Wilma F. Bergfeld, M.D., of the Cleveland Clinic Foundation in Ohio, the massage itself serves an important function: It stimulates circulation and encourages hair roots to grow. Even today, French men are known to splash an old folk remedy of nettles extracted in apple cider vinegar on their heads. Also called stinging nettles, this wild weed actually stings a person when touched. Don't worry, though—it loses this characteristic when processed. Aloe vera not only is good for hair, but also serves as protection against sun and wind for a scalp that becomes exposed when hair begins to thin.
While it is difficult to know for sure that the herbs are helping, all the men I know who use them swear that they can tell the difference. When you use any hair-growth treatment, remember that the scalp is the most important area to address. Hair itself is dead. Certain types of hair conditioners can make it look a little thicker or smooth it down, but little else can be done. The scalp, however, is very much alive and can respond to herbal treatments.
Of course, testosterone, genes and poor circulation are not the only factors that cause men to lose their locks. Unlike the man who sprouts it, the body considers hair one of its least important assets. It is one of the first things to go when a serious illness, nervous-system disease or advancing years demand their share of limited nutrients. Some drug treatments, especially ones for arthritis, gout, depression, high blood pressure and heart problems, can also shut down hair growth. So can radiation therapy and the various scalp problems that fall under the umbrella of dermatitis. If you think that any of these could be causing your baldness, choose herbs from the other chapters of this book that help treat the specific condition.
Rosemary Hair Oil
½ teaspoon rosemary essential oil
½ ounce jojoba oil (or castor oil)
Combine ingredients. Dab a small amount on your fingertips and rub it into the scalp, using circular motions. Although this treatment will make your hair oily, use it twice a week and leave it on your hair at least a few hours before washing it off.
Hair Formula
1 cup aloe vera gel
4 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon nettle tincture
½ teaspoon vitamin E oil
½ teaspoon rosemary essential oil
Combine ingredients in a blender and process until smooth. Massage a small amount of the formula into your scalp every day and whenever you wash your hair. If you aren't able to find nettle tincture, make the recipe without it or see chapter 8 for instructions on how to make your own.